The third of the Pancha Kedar temple is that of Lord Rudranath Temple, where the face of the deity is the symbol of Lord Shiva. Probably this is the only Shivarupa which has a face, other than usual lingams.
Perched above 2,286 metres from the sea level, this site is about 23 kilometres away from Gopeshwar. Pilgrims can journey upto about 23 kilometres in vehicles and the rest by trekking over very high ridges through a region which overlooks magestic Hathi hills, Nanda Devi peak, Nanda Ghunti tops, Trishuli parvat and some others. The trekkers also enjoy the luxury of taking hot bath at a number of hot springs near the Rudranath Temple.
There is another important temple which becomes a mustsee naturally is that of Anusuya Devi temple about 3-km trek from Rudranath Temple. The Archaeological Survey of India’s Almora branch (Garhwal-Kumaon region) had carried out an antiquarian survey of the Pancha Kedar temples way back in mid-1980s, in which the officials found Gupta period inscriptions at Anusuya Devi Temple. Devout Hindus would flock in these heights to take a bath in the Mythological Vaitarani river, supposedly flowing down the Swarga, believing that the bathing would help their soul achieve salvation. The survey revealed foot prints and other evidences which proved the fact that massive numbers of devout Hindus used to visit these sites since acons.
HOW TO REACH THERE
By Air – Nearest airstrip is Jolly Grant at Dehradun
By Road – Buses/ Taxis/Private Cars. Motorable roads are available from Gopeshwar and Mandal Chatti, upto village Sagar. From Sagar it is a 20 kms steep but pleasant trek to the Temple. This trek can also be undertaken from Joshimath. The trekking distance become 45 kms for Joshimath. Guides, dolis, ponies are also available. Night stay possible at the height of Gopeshwar and Mandal Chatti. Staying arrangements are available at Gopeshwar and Mandal Chatti.
By Railway – The nearest railhead is at Rishikesh. From there Buses, taxis and Private cars are pliable.
The Temple here protects Lord Shiva’s face, which appeared there on its own (Swayambhu). There is also a space just outside the sanctum sanctorum, where devouts can sit down to worship the deity amid mantras chanted by priests. The Swayambhu Shivalinga has a pious humane face, from where showers silent blessings to the devotees. The crown in the locks of Lord Rudranath is covered by a white cloth. The length between the chin and his locks is said to be 3 feet. Droplets of water fall from a ledge atop the Swayambhu Shivlinga. The ledge is naturally created, even as the entire interior of the sanctum sanctorum is damp, cold and has small poodles here and there.
The priests do not have a proper permanent platform to worship and chant mantras. Instead they make do with a few wooden planks placed suitably to stand on for their religious services. As Lord Shiva is angry here, albeit kindness for devotees, the priests cover his face with a golden cover, to open at the times of prayers only, thus for the pilgrims there is always the right time to await to take a glimpse and worship of the Lord. Once seen and worshipped, they feel their entire travails and staggered moves up the mountain tracks successful.
There are a number of small glaciers, which pilgrims need to traverse very carefully as danger lurks in every turn of the gla ciers, which cannot be foreseen without a guide. The whiteness of the snow mixes up with the violet of flowers in the mountain sides which also are full of blooming rhododendrons.
There are some thatched huts roofed by straws and phus alongside the trek to the sanctum sanctorum which rouse questions. Such huts can not last long in that fluctuating cli mate, nor are they properly painted inside, (often having the coats of soot on all walls, with infirm wooden doors and shut windows), are meant for temporary occupation by pilgrims on emergency conditions. These could be constructed in firmer way to make them safe accommodation for pilgrims entrapped in bad weather, so that they can spend the brief time free from intruding hilly wildlife, which also seek shelters during bad weather storms or rains. The temple also need careful renovation which strangely was not done apparently for quite some decades.
Visiting Rudranath Temple and not mentioning the Vaitarani Kunda is probably sacrilegious. Away from the temole about a kilometre or two there is a statue, measured five feet by five feet, of Bhagwan Vishnu reclined on Sheshnag an all-powerful God of the order equal to Bhagwan Shiva’s and one of the Hindu Trinity, other two being Bhagwan Shiva and Bhagwan Brahma. Alongside Bhagwan Vishnu’s reclined statue there is a natural spring. Bhagwan Vishnu, or worshipped by Hindus as Narayana, has his navel with a deity on a bloomed lotus flower, which symbolised that Bhagwan Brahma appeared from his body parts only. It is a breathtaking experience for pilgrims in that mesmerising heights of divine realities.
There are numbers of holy Kunds (Tanks) near Rudranath temple namely Suryakund, Chandrakund, Tarakund etc. The Vaitarani, the divine river flows pass behind the temple.
WHAT PILGRIMS MUST KNOW
● Altitude – 2286 mtrs. from sea level.
● Climate – Chilly biting cold
● Best time to visit – May to June and September to October
● Clothes – Must be fairly warm clothes, with add-ons for fluctuating climates.
● Stay – There are hotels and guest houses to spend Night, beddings and blankets are also served.
● Trekking – It is trekking through a hostile terrain. Dense forest, steep cliffs, abrupt heavy showers and chilly cold are very usual occurrence duringthe trekking. Wild animals like bears, huge snakes, monkeys etc are also likely to accost a pilgrim. Porters and guide must betaken along for safety measures. Villages or settlements are few and far between.
SITES TO VISIT – Anusuya Mata Temple, 5 kms uphill from Mandal Committee guest house. As the legend has it, Anusuya Mata was the wife of Atri Muni and was considered the most pious woman of the time. Atri Muni’s
● meditation cave, where he carried out his penance.
● Waterfall there which works like a curtain at the cave mouth.
● Balkhillya River, its meadow and the path alongside the river.
● The 6-feet tall saffron Lord Ganesha curved out of a single-piece rock. This idol specially worshipped as Bighna Nashak before embarking upon the ultimate trek for Rudranath Temple.
● A bugiyal (green meadow) at Hamsa. There is also a shepherd’s hut on a stilt.
● Dhanpal maidan appears on the trekking route after the dense forests thin out and conifers are gradually passe4d thoroughly.
● A pass appears after the maidan. It’s called Nayla pass. Situated at a higher reach of 426.72 mtrs. (1400 feet) from that height. Visibility is often misleading at that height there.
● From Nyala Pass, the trek to Rudranath meanders down towards Rudranath Temple.
● Narada Kund, a natural spring of fresh water comes soon after. There is also a small temple and an archway The stretch meanders to the main temple of Rudranath
