A mid his familial mood, Bhagwan Maheshwara sits here on His stomach. His family is around as we find Mahakali, Mahasaraswati, Mahalakshmi all have their positions well ensconced in different heights near Him. The priests’ worship of the Shivling in belly form is somewhat queer enough to draw pilgrims from far and near at 3,389 metres above the sea level, as the legend we discussed already in Kedar Khand relating to the Pandavas’ travails.
The Madhyamaheshwar Temple is situated on a slope of a ridge over 25 km from Guptakashi. The stretch between Guptakashi and Kalimath is motorable in a backdrop of exquisitely changing colours of fertile vegetation dotted with wild natural forests. Bhagwan Shiva is worshipped by a particular sect of Brahmin, Rawals. They also live in the heights amid the environment of exquisite Nature.
The ambience is gracefully picturesque of Madhyamaheshwara stands out for its locale surrounded by such beautiful peaks as Chaukhamba, Kedarnath and Neelkanthha. There are few human habitations around. The nearest one is Gaundar far away at the confluence of Mdhyamaheshwara Ganga and Markanga Ganga.
The stretch can be best approached from Rishikesh or Srinagar, the ancient capital Pauri Garhwal kings, by motorised vehicles as far as Mansuna via Rudraprayag and Ukhimath. From Mansuna the trekking should ideally starts as that stretch of the Chamoli district, under the administrative jurisdiction of which the temple falls, is placid in summers. The target is generally a 2-km short-cut route to Jugasu, which is ordinarily a 5-km stretch. The short-cut is a more difficult terrain than the other one but accessible.
From Jugasu to Ransi, through a number of hill-based villages, trekking is generally an adventurous task. Ransi is at 1400 metre height above the sea level and is about the half the stretch for Madhyamaheshwara Temple.
These villages have a recent history of natural hazard. In 1998 there was a devastating tremor in the Himalayan hills which razed almost all huts of the village, exposing the villagers to the mercy of wild animals. It was also the time when the governments, both Central and UP, seriously embarked upon utilising alternative energy, by supplying solar lanterns to every household there. As electricity was still a godordained luxury to villagers in these remote hilly terrains.
The trekking becomes an enjoyable exercise in the broad daylight amid the snow-white peaks and lush greenery of the wild forests which abound in this part of the Himalayas. From Ransi to Goundhar, through Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary, one of the world’s richest biosphere extravaganza, the trekkers have to halt at Khatara. From Khatar it is a steep trek for over five hours through rocks, narrow valleys and cliffs for Nanu at over 2100 metres height and then Makhouma even higher nearing the Temple. It is indeed a journey passing through massive mountain snakes, jungle fowls and other animals, which evidently were more scared of approaching men than otherwise. At such heights pilgrims may often encounter wild bears which generally live at over 2000 metres in mountains, pythons and numerous poisonous snakes.
If the fauna would be such uniquely special, could the floura be otherwise in that wild Nature? The question would often dog the minds of adventurous pilgrims. There are innumerable species of wild flowers of all possible hues, many of them awaiting discovery by botanists, abound in the stretch amid dense oak forests. Strangely in that Natural expanse are clusters of huts of people who live in these forest in the Dev Bhumi and are part of the nature themselves.
HOW TO VISIT THERE
● There are two alternatives: One from the Srinagar track an the other from Rishikesh
● Trekking is arduous, dangerous but highly satisfying when accomplished. Base camp ideally should be Mansuna or Jugasu.
By Air
● The nearest Airstrip is Jolly Grant at Dehradun.
By Road
● Motorable upto Mansuna via Rudraprayag and Ukhimath
● Trekking after Ukhimath up through the mountainous vil lages and Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary.
● Approach can also be made from Gupta Kashi region through motorise vehicles.
By Train
● Upto Rishikesh, then by motorised vehicle upto Mansuna, Trekking up the mountainous range from Mansuna base camp.
WHAT PILGRIMS AND TRAVELLERS MUST VISIT
● Kalimath, where Goddess Kali is worshipped.
● Mahalakshmi Temple, where goddess of Wealth Goddess Lakshmi is worshipped.
● Small stream which flows meandering down the Madhyamaheshwara temple is actually the ancient river Saraswati.
● There a temple of Mahasaraswati, where goddess of learning Goddess Saraswati is worshipped everyday.
● Meadows and Budha Maheshwar Lake atop a mountain, in which dazzles the reflections of snow-capped Chaukhamba peak.
WHAT PILGRIMS OR TRAVELLERS MUST REMEMBER
● Hotels are available even at a height of 2100 metres. So carry less baggage.
● Do not disturb wildlife, never pursue them, keep away from them. It is because the trekking would be through the Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary has a number of absolutely rare species of wildlife and are ecologically a point of international research and studies.
● The climate is chilly cold and windy, so light bur warm clothes are necessary.
● Do not trek without a guide and a high-terrain porter, or it is troublesome for people from the plains.
● Carry some water, as touching the river water would be laden with risks of coming close to wildlife in rivers, streams and even natural lakes. Use the hot spring waters for bathing, if you must.
● Accosting animals is possible, so be very careful about your own safety.
● Do not make the high altitude terrains your litter region, carry them along and drop at prescribed bins.